Drop shoulder (patterning) – A garment where the seam joining the sleeve to the bodice is designed to fall off of the edge of the shoulder rather than sitting on the shoulder. Usually seen in more relaxed styles.
Courses (fabric) – Term used for knit fabrics. It is the knit equivalent of the crosswise grain in wovens. Courses run perpendicular to the selvages and ribs of knit fabrics. Knit fabrics have the most stretch in the direction of the courses.
Clip (cutting) – A small snip cut into fabric with the tip of scissors into the seam allowance. Can be used to indicate match points Used in outer curved seams to allow the fabric to spread or expand within the seam allowance.
A fabric “tunnel” sewing into a garment or sewn item to hold boning, elastic, cording, etc. Casing can be built into a pattern. An example of this is folder over elastic casing in a waistband. Casing can be added nearly anywhere using a fabric tube, ribbon, bias cut fabric, etc. Boning casings are made from […]
An imaginary diagonal “line” intersecting the lengthwise and crosswise grain at a 45° angle. Wovens and knits stretch on the bias. This is known as mechanical stretch. Cut on the bias when you need stretch in woven fabrics. Woven fabrics do not fray on the bias. Bias cut dresses were popular in the late 1920s […]
Long, easy to remove stitches applied by hand or by machine. Basting is used to temporarily sew layers together for fitting or to prevent layers from shifting while sewing by machine. Hand basting is done by sewing long stitches. Loosely secure stitches at each end. Machine basting is done by setting your machine to long […]