Laundering fabric using the same method the garment will be laundered before sewing to allow the fabric to shrink. Prevents fitting issues, puckering, & other problems caused by fabric shrinking after the sewing and fitting process. For dry clean only fabrics, you can use a steam iron held over the fabric but not touching to […]
Mitered Corner (sewing) – Mitered corners are a clean seaming technique where corners come together at a 45 degree angle. Mitering reduces bulk and is done using two pieces of fabric cut on a 45 degree angle or by by a process of folding, pressing, and cutting.
Nap (fabric) – Nap is a term to describe the texture/sheen of fabrics such as fur, velvet, satin, or other fabrics where the fabric does not have the same appearance in every direction. One-way prints are treated like napped fabrics during layout and cutting. Cutting napped fabrics requires all pattern pieces to be cut in […]
Hem/Hemming (sewing) – Edge finish where the edges of the fabric is folded over to the inside of the garment. Fabric raw edges can be finished with serging or hem tape/bias and turned under or folded under twice to enclose the raw edges of the fabric. Faced hems involve using an additional shaped facing or […]
Gathering (sewing) – The process of reducing fullness at an edge until the desired length of the edge is reached. Use multiple rows of loose stitching and pull the thread or make a zig zag stitch over heavy thread and pull along the heavy thread. Sew down and press to flatten to prepare for adding […]
Grading Seams (assembly) – One side of the seam allowance is cut shorter than the other and the seam is pressed to one side. Reduces bulk and helps prevent the seam from showing through to the front as a ridge or bump. Used for bulky seams in areas like facings, waistbands, shoulders, and crotch area.
Facing (patterning) – Fabric extension or additional piece sewn as a backing. It encloses the raw edges to prevent raveling, give a finished look, and reinforce edges.
Ease (patterning) – Ease is the difference between the body measurements the pattern is drafted for and the finished garment measurements. Wearing Ease is the additional space added over body measurements to account for sitting, breathing, eating, and moving. Design Ease is the additional space added over wearing ease to create a style or shape. […]
Drop shoulder (patterning) – A garment where the seam joining the sleeve to the bodice is designed to fall off of the edge of the shoulder rather than sitting on the shoulder. Usually seen in more relaxed styles.